'I am never lost in the mountains, It is where I found myself'- Lee Hille
KINNAUR the district stretches up to Tibetan border in South eastern Himachal Pradesh, is blessed with magnificent and majestic mountains and valley scenery and a distinctive culture and ethnic mix of Aryan Hindu to Tibetan Buddhist as you proceed east ward.
It is one of the least popular district of Himachal Pradesh after Lahaul and Spiti. This is the land of Mountain Villages with slate roof temples, vast apple orchards and hair raising roads, beyond it lies remote spiti.
The people of kinnaur are called kinnauris. They are proud but very friendly people who are easily recognized by green and red felt basheri hats.
To truly experience the beauty of Kinnaur one needs to quit the main roads and travel through the village pathways, We could say this by our Personal Experience.
Villages Under Kinnaur-
*Sangla - The Biggest Village.
*Sarahan- Home of 800 years old Bhima Kali temple.
*Chitkul - Indo-China border.
*Reckong peo also known as Peo- administrative headquater.
*Kalpa- Home of Kinner Kailash.
*Nako- rugged mountains but worth visit.
And other smaller villages are rakchham, karcham, Pooh, khab, ribba.
Highest peak in the district of Kinnaur is Reo Purgyil sometimes known as
Leo Pargial with the height of 6816 m.
SANGLA VALLEY
Sangla Valley also known as Baspa valley is surrounded by High rugged mountains on all sides, apple orchards, mix with deodar forests. One would be mesmerized by looking at the clouds passing by and fresh chilling breeze that would fill one's heart, the Valley is also parallel to the river Baspa. Some Heavenly places for visitors all over the world which are BERING NAG TEMPLE, TIBETAN BUDDHIST MONASTERY, SANGLA MONASTERY and KAMRU VILLAGE. There are small trek routes which we came across that led us to the high altitude Himalayan treks like LAMKHAGA PASS, RUPIN PASS, BORASU PASS.
Tibetan Buddhist Monastery- It is a 5 min walk from sangla bus stand. This place is not only a monastery but also the school for monks. The monks here were very welcoming, they invited us inside to their prayer room. Our eyes were caught towards the interiors, the architecture & paintings on walls. The place was very calm and filled with positive vibes. It is a good place to meditate and relax. We were offered with tamarind, chocolates and date palm by the monks. They sat for their prayer in the prayer hall, chanted mantras and played musical instruments like- Rolmo, Shang bell, Lag-na, Tibetan horn, Gong, Gyaling
KAMRU is a village located in the foot hills of Kinner Kailash, it is about 2 km upward hike from Sangla valley of Kinnaur district. The village is an ancient capital of Bashahr Principate. It is known for the tower like fort ( kamru fort ) that stands for thousands of years which was made by Lord Badhrinath ji. 36 crore (360,000,000) gods and goddess are said to be inside the fort. A shrine of Kamakhya Devi is also inside the fort campus, which was brought many years ago from Assam.
Our journey to the kamru fort was one of a kind. It was a 2 km upward hike from the Tibetan monastery Sangla which took us 45-50 mins.The entry gate to the kamru village seemed exquisite which was carved and painted in Tibetan style. The hike was very tiring, we were out of breathe and the destination seemed endless but the view we got to see the whole time was breathtaking.
After a 25 min hike through the village of Kamru we came across a wooden gate in which Hindu mythological Gods, Goddesses were carved, which excited us with a thought that the journey was not much pain full and we reached the fort. But the saddest part was we were still halfway, the locals guided us and then we came to know that it was the gate to Kamru Temple which was the temple of Shree Badri Vishal Ji temple. It is also a 15th century shrine of lord Badrinath.
We were mesmerized by the beauty of the wood carved temples, the slated roof tops and the mighty Himalayas on the backdrop. It was something which we could not believe our eyes. It seemed more like a dream, we started hiking towards the fort which was another 20 min hike, but this time the path was very steep.
There are number of myth attached to this fort. Just before entering the fort it seemed like the fort is placed over packing of dressed stones that act like a pedestal for an exceptional piece of art. As we entered a massive silver door, the caretaker of the fort gave us red and green ribbon belts to tie on our waists and felt basheri hats.
The caretaker showed us inside the fort and gave us a lot of information about the fort. The fort was ruled by more than 100 dynasties of Himachal. There is a Kamakhya temple right in front of the main fort, an image of Kamakhya Devi supposed to have been brought from Assam and is placed in the temple. Except Kamakhya Devi Temple, the other parts of the fort are restricted for the general public. Only the members of the Himachal royal families get to go further inside the fort.
Chitkul is a village in Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. It is an hour ride from Sangla i.e. 24 km & It is the last village near the Indo-China border.
Best time to visit in bright summer (March - June), in the monsoon it is breathtaking (July - September) & it turns into mini paradise during winters (October - February). One gets too experience Chitkul in a very different way with the change of season.
The village Chitkul is in the foothills of Kinner Kailash and parallel to the river Baspa.
We spent most of the time in the bank of the Baspa river which is a minute downhill walk from the main village. Enjoying the cold fresh breeze and mesmerized by the gigantic rugged mountains.There are numbers of camp along side the river. People can spend time camping in the river bank.
The main attraction in the village is the famous Mathi Temple. Mathi is the goddess whom the locals worship. The temple is in the center of the village and the main complex of the temple is said to be 500 years old which is believed to be build by the Garwal. The temple is totally carved with wood and beautiful artwork could be seen crafted on the wooden doors, pillars and on the walls of the temple.
Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail-
Ralph Waldon Emerson
To be continued
Photography- MAINAK NAYAK (Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/amormainakfresco/?hl=en)
Traveler- MAINAK NAYAK
Written- MEDHA NAYAK, MAINAK NAYAK
Edit- MEDHA NAYAK & ADITI NANDI